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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.